Jamdani Sarees: An Epitome Of The Weaving Culture Of West Bengal, India
Introduction
Light as a feather and arising from an exotic concoction of Mughal patronage with ancient Hindu traditions, Jamdani sarees represent one of the finest and most ancient forms of weaving that originated in Bengal. These sarees are characterised by intricately designed motifs that seem to float on the surface of an almost transparent, ultra-fine fabric, giving it a mystical charm that is hard to find elsewhere.
Background of Jamdani
The word ‘Jamdani’ is believed to be of Persian origin, derived from ‘Jam (meaning flower) and ‘Dani’ (meaning vase). It is during the Mughal rule (4th – 6th century AD), that the weavers of Dhaka (in present day Bangladesh) who had been weaving this fabric for centuries, received extensive royal patronage. The finest varieties of muslin fabric were produced during this period with fabulous floral and figured motifs. This was the golden age of dhakai muslin when the skill of weaving rose to an art par excellence. With the decline of the Mughal dynasty and subsequent British conquest of India, the trade continued to flourish for a while and enormous quantities of jamdani muslin were exported to Europe. However, by the nineteenth century, cheaper industrially manufactured yarn from Britain were being imported into India which eventually led to the collapse of the jamdani weaving industry in Bengal.
Yet, the jamdani weaving tradition has survived into modern times, adapting to the changing tastes & trends. After partition of Bengal in 1947, many weavers from Bangladesh migrated to India and were rehabilitated in West Bengal. This was the start of jamdani weaving in present day West Bengal. Over the last few decades, the art of jamdani weaving has witnessed a revival due to support from government & non-government organisations in India.
Weaving Technique
Jamdani sarees are woven on the brocade loom. This is a supplementary weft technique of weaving, where the artistic motifs are produced by a non-structural weft, in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The standard weft creates a fine, sheer fabric while the supplementary weft motifs with thicker threads adds the intricate pattern to it. Each supplementary weft motif is added separately by hand by interlacing the weft thread into the warp with the fine bamboo sticks using individual spools of thread. The result is a myriad of vibrant patterns that appear to float on a shimmering surface. What’s remarkable in this weaving technique is that the pattern is not sketched or outlined on the fabric. Instead, its drawn on a graph paper and place underneath the warp. Needless to say, Jamdani weaving is an extremely skillful, laborious and time consuming process ant it could take anywhere from a month to a year to complete a saree.
Types of Jamdani manufactured in West Bengal, India
Shantipur Jamdani: – Woven in Shantipur, situated in the Nadia district of West Bengal, these jamdani sarees are similar to Tangail jamdanis of Bangladesh. They have a fine texture and often, elegant striped motifs decorate the saree.
Phulia Jamdani: – Phulia , situated in the Nadia district of West Bengal, is a prominent hub for Jamdani saree production. The weavers here specialise in creating a wide range of Jamdani sarees, from classic designs to contemporary interpretations.
Dhaniakhali Jamdani: – With its origin in Dhaniakhali, West Bengal, these jamdani sarees have tighter weave compared to Shantipur varieties. They are marked by bold colours and dark, contrasting borders.
Modern Trends
The original jamdani sarees were woven in pure cotton. The finer the weave, the more soft, light and expensive was the resulting cotton fabric. Today, modern versions of the jamdani are also woven in a blend of cotton & silk, and even in pure silk. More vibrant colours including gold and silver coloured yarns are used to make contemporary designs. These sarees have a glossier finish and are worn by women all over India, to make a style statement in traditional Jamdani.
Jamdani was declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013.